To measure for a custom piece, record four things: the space the piece will fill, the obstacles around that space, how you will use the piece, and the route it will take into your home. Measure each space at more than one point, because walls and floors are rarely perfectly square, and always work from the smallest figure. Then photograph the space with a tape measure in the frame. With that, we can plan a piece that fits the first time.
What you need
- A steel tape measure, 25 feet (7.5 m) if you have one. Fabric tapes stretch.
- A notepad or a phone for a rough sketch.
- Painter's tape to mark the outline on the floor or wall.
- A small level, if you are measuring an alcove or a wall-hung piece.
- A second person for long measurements.
Record everything in inches, to the nearest 1/8 inch (3 mm), and note which way you measured.
Step 1: the space
Open walls
Measure the width of wall available, the depth you can give up into the room, and any height limit such as a window or a shelf above. Note what sits on either side, whether that is a door frame, a corner or another piece.
Alcoves and recesses
Measure the width at the back, front, top, middle and bottom. Measure the depth at both sides and the centre, and the height at both sides. Walls lean and floors slope, so these figures often differ by 1/4 inch (6 mm) or more. Measure the two diagonals as well; if they differ, the alcove is out of square. A built-in piece needs a fitting allowance, and we will advise on how much once we see your figures.
Floors
Put a level on the floor where the piece will stand. If it rocks or the bubble drifts, note which way the floor falls. Adjustable feet or shims can take up small differences.
Step 2: obstacles
Most surprises at installation come from details that are easy to miss.
- Baseboards: their height and how far they stand off the wall. A piece pushed against the wall rests on its front feet unless the back is cut to clear them.
- Outlets, switches and data points: height from the floor and distance from a corner. Decide whether you want them hidden, reachable, or passed through a cut-out.
- Heating vents and radiators: keep solid wood off and away from them; warm air dries one side faster than the other.
- Window sills and frames: height and how far they project.
- Doors: the swing of any door nearby, including cabinet and closet doors, so nothing collides.
- Pipes: for a vanity, the height and position of the drain and supply lines, measured from the floor and from the centre of the space.
Step 3: how you will use it
A piece that fits the wall but not the way you live is not finished planning. Think about the use, then add the space it needs.
- Drawers and doors: leave about 30 to 36 inches (76–91 cm) of clear floor in front, so a drawer can open fully while you stand in front of it.
- TV stands: measure the TV's width and the width of its feet or stand. A stand a few inches wider than the screen on each side looks settled. Note the height of any equipment you want inside.
- Bookshelves: measure your tallest books and any objects you plan to display. Most books fit shelves with 10 to 12 inches (25–30 cm) of clear height; art books need more.
- Dining tables: allow at least 36 inches (91 cm) from the table edge to walls or furniture, and about 24 to 30 inches (61–76 cm) of edge per seat.
- Desks: standard desk height is about 29 to 30 inches (74–76 cm). Measure the chair you will use and whether its arms need to slide under.
- Beds: measure the mattress itself. Mattress sizes vary by an inch or two between makers.
Step 4: the route in
A piece that fits the room still has to reach it. Walk the route from the street to the room and measure the narrowest point at each stage.
- Doorways: width and height inside the frame, with the door open. Doors can often be taken off their hinges for extra room.
- Entry clearance: the distance from the door to the nearest wall or turn inside, which decides whether a long piece can be swung through.
- Hallways: width, and the width at any turn. Note light fixtures, radiators and handrails that stand out from the wall.
- Stairs: the narrowest width between handrails, the ceiling height above the steps and at landings, and the shape of any turn.
- Elevators: door width and height, interior width, depth and height, and the interior diagonal.
Large pieces can often be built in sections or with removable legs. Tell us early if your route is tight, and we will plan the construction around it.
Step 5: photographs
Photograph the space straight on, then from each side. Include a tape measure laid along the floor or wall so scale is clear. Photograph any obstacle close up, and the tightest points on the route. A photo of the room as a whole, with the light it gets, helps us advise on finish and tone too.
What to send us
- Your sketch with all measurements, and which figure is the smallest.
- Photographs of the space, the obstacles and the route.
- What the piece is for, and any items it must hold.
- The finish you have in mind, Oak, Walnut, Brown or Black, and Smooth or Natural rough.
What happens next
We review your measurements with you in a free consultation and confirm the details. You receive a full quote before any wood is cut. Once the piece is built, and before it is finished, we send you photographs for your approval.
When you are ready, start with the short form on our custom orders page. If you would like a starting point, our TV stands, bookshelves and bathroom vanities are often the pieces people ask us to adapt.