Caring for solid wood furniture comes down to five habits. Dust with a soft cloth, wipe spills when they happen, put something between the wood and anything hot, wet or rough, keep it out of direct sun and away from heat sources, and keep indoor humidity steady, roughly between 35 and 55 percent. Most of the damage people see on good furniture comes from one of these, not from age.
Know your finish first
How you care for a piece depends on what protects its surface.
- Film finishes such as polyurethane and lacquer form a clear layer on top of the wood. They resist water and stains well and need no regular treatment. Oils and waxes cannot soak through them and simply build up as a smeary layer.
- Oil and hardwax-oil finishes soak into the wood. They look and feel closer to raw timber, and they need refreshing with more oil, typically every six to twelve months, depending on use.
Every CARVERHAUS piece is sealed with polyurethane: a gloss topcoat on Smooth surfaces and a single matte coat on Natural rough. The guidance below is written for that kind of finish, with notes on oiled pieces where they differ.
Dusting and routine cleaning
Dust is fine grit. Wiped across a surface with a dry, rough cloth, it leaves small scratches that dull the finish over time.
- Dust weekly with a soft cotton or microfibre cloth, either dry or very lightly dampened with water.
- Wipe with the grain, not in circles.
- For sticky marks or fingerprints, add a drop of mild dish soap to a bowl of warm water. Wring the cloth until it is barely damp, wipe, then dry the surface straight away with a second cloth.
- On Natural rough surfaces, a soft brush lifts dust out of the texture.
What not to use
- Silicone sprays and many aerosol polishes. Silicone can work into the finish and is very hard to remove; it also causes problems if the piece is ever refinished.
- Ammonia and bleach. Glass and bathroom cleaners often contain them. They can dull or spot the finish, and ammonia can darken oak.
- Abrasive pads and powders. These scratch the film.
- Wax on polyurethane. It does not protect anything and leaves a hazy build-up.
- Wet cloths and steam cleaners. Standing water is the enemy of any finish.
If you want to use a cleaner, choose one labelled silicone-free and safe for finished wood, and test it on an unseen spot first.
Water, heat and everyday contact
A white ring on a table is moisture or heat trapped in the finish. It usually comes from a wet glass, a hot mug or a warm dish placed straight on the surface.
- Use coasters under glasses and mugs, and placemats under plates.
- Put a trivet or a folded cloth under anything from the oven or the stove.
- Wipe spills straight away, including water from vases and plant pots. Put a saucer under plants and check it.
- Add felt pads to the base of lamps, bowls and decor, so they do not scratch when moved.
- Lay a desk pad under a laptop or keyboard you use daily.
- Avoid leaving rubber or plastic items on wood for long periods; some react with finishes.
Sunlight
All wood changes colour with light. Oak tends to warm slightly; walnut tends to lighten. Most of the change happens in the first months. Direct sun speeds it up and can fade a finish over time.
- Use sheer curtains or blinds where sun falls on a piece for hours each day.
- Move lamps, books and bowls every few weeks, especially in the first year, so you do not end up with a sharp outline where they stood.
Humidity and heat sources
Solid wood takes in moisture from the air and gives it back, and it swells and shrinks as it does. In a typical heated and air-conditioned US home, wood settles at around 6 to 9 percent moisture content. Large or fast swings are what cause problems: gaps opening in winter, drawers sticking in summer, and in extreme cases cracks.
- Keep relative humidity roughly between 35 and 55 percent, and as steady as you can. Around 40 to 50 percent suits both furniture and people.
- An inexpensive hygrometer tells you where you are.
- In winter, when heating dries the air, a humidifier helps. In humid summers, air conditioning or a dehumidifier does the same job in reverse.
- Keep furniture a few feet from radiators, fireplaces, heating vents and air-conditioning outlets. Air blowing on one side dries it faster than the other.
Small seasonal changes are normal. A drawer that runs a little tighter in August and looser in January is solid wood behaving as it should.
Moving furniture
- Empty drawers and shelves first.
- Lift; do not drag. Dragging strains joints and legs and scratches floors.
- Carry tables by the frame or apron, not by the top alone.
- Use two people for anything large. Solid wood is heavier than it looks.
Small marks and repairs
On Natural rough surfaces, light marks tend to blend into the texture over time. On Smooth surfaces, fine scratches sit in the film rather than in the wood. Do not sand or apply oil to a polyurethane finish yourself; it will leave a patch that looks different from the rest.
If something happens to your piece, write to us with a photograph and we will advise. Every CARVERHAUS piece carries a one-year warranty.
If your piece has an oil finish
For oiled furniture from elsewhere, the routine is similar, with one addition. When the surface starts to look dry or pale, clean it, apply a thin coat of the same oil the maker used, leave it for the time on the tin, and wipe off every trace of excess. Dispose of oily rags flat and outdoors, or in water, as they can self-heat.
A few minutes a week is enough to keep a well-made piece looking right for decades. If you are choosing new furniture with care in mind, our dining tables and living room pieces are all sealed with polyurethane, in a Smooth or Natural rough surface. For questions about a piece you own, contact us.